Best way to set up car amp in house without psu

best way to set up car amp in house without psu

more tags,rockford,fosgate,power,punch,prime,amp,car,in,room,house,power,supply,psu,battery,charger,amps,amperes,volts,ohms,stable,audio,yamaha,ipad2,15's,subwoofers,car,audio,room,in,my. Ссылка на страницу с видео: Ссылка HTML на страницу с видео: Код для вставки плеера. The best way to hook up car amp and subs in house. How to connect a car amplifier to a switching power supply - TUTORIAL. 2000W RMS Car sound in a House? Car amp and 15' sub setup and demo using a Dell server PSU . Car Subwoofers in house 'how to' EASIEST ON YOUTUBE! Car Audio Home Theater | How To Use Car Stereo System Anywhere | Car Audio Q&A.

best way to set up car amp in house without psu

The easiest way to hook up a car stereo in your house, by using a 12DC power supply converter. Audio: No copyright infringement intended - I DO NOT OWN ANY AUDIO IN THIS VIDEO. Audio: Nickelback - When We Stand Together Maroon 5 ft Christina Aguilera - Moves Like Jagger (Radio 96.3 Heart SX) Belinda Carlisle - Heaven Is A Place On Earth Frederik Olufsen - Rocks CD Used: Nickelback - Here & Now Budget Car Stereos - AND MY FAVOURITE!

- (This Is The One I Have Installed In My Own Car & Very Pleased With It) 12v Power Supply: Affordable Car Speakers: Speaker Wire: Electrical Tape Under £2!

(Price Subject To Change): Anti-Static Wrist Band Also Under £2!: Crocodile Clip For Testing: Cable Cutters: On/Off Rocker Switches Under £3!: Super Glue: Soldering Iron Under £9!: PC Fan: Cable Splicers: Amazon Items Listed Above I Have Purchased To Complete My Set Up Of A Car Stereo In The Home, If You Already Have A Stereo To Hook Up In Your House, It Won't Cost More Than £30.00!

Please Note: Amazon Prices Are Subject To Change! This Is The Stereo I Used In The Video, Which Comes With Two Speakers & A Remote!: It's Currently £53.99 Which Is A Steal, I Remember Paying Quite A Bit More For Mine!

(Argos Price Subject To Change)

best way to set up car amp in house without psu

best way to set up car amp in house without psu - How To Hook Up Car Subs Amp In Room Without Computer Supply

best way to set up car amp in house without psu

I have a car Amplifier in my house (Just collecting dust) and want to put it to use, I dont have a car anymore and i have a 12" subwoofer. I've collected some cables around my house and partially hooked my amp to my Pc but all i need now is a way of powering this amp inside my house. Looking into the manual for the amp it requires 34A (amps) of power.

How would i go about powering this? Also how Do i turn it on because it has a remote Feature that has to go to the deck and Im not setting up a deck aswell. Thanks One way: Run it off a 12V battery ( deep cycle is best ) and keep that battery charged with an automotive battery charger.

Friends off the "grid" do this with solar panels to battery bank. Or run the amp off a AC/DC power supply. In the US you can get regulated bench supplies, But 34 Amps is substantial, so a PS of that capacity is going to be expensive. Quote: Originally posted by AndrewT sell it. I second this. Car amps are not audiphile amps by a long stretch and especially car subs drivers are horrible when used indoors in a low noise enviroment where you can hear all it's flaws.

Alternatively, if you're dead set on using it, just use the 12v supply in the PC to power it provided you have a relatively high wattage PSU. Don't mind the 34A specification, that's only going to be in very short peaks if indeed ever. "Ice" didn't state the details on the amp in question... FWIW: I have done numerous 12V sound systems, for portable high SPL sound systems in parades, to individuals that can't get AC to their homes in the country.

The quality of 12V components can be very bad, so using low end amps are not worth it. There are however very good 12V amps and head units. It's not the voltage but the quality of components and implementation.

There are of course inherent problems with a 12V DC system, You should use a high sensitivity speaker design, to maximum efficiency. Remember there are audiophiles who power their systems with "flea powered" amps.

Thanks for the replies. I've hooked up a spare Computer Powersupply and I am using both 12v rails, 18A combined (No I did not add 8A from each 12v rail). I've shorted over the remote and 12V+ and to my suprise the amp turns on. So If the Maximum my Amp will take is about 34A, Im going to need 34A at 12V right? Ive researched for Powersupplies and came across one of these. 60A 12v Rail PSU 750W Im guessing I'll just set it up the same way but I'll put a fuse into the circuit, 35-40A fuse would be Okay right?

I could'nt find anything cheap that was around 40A so if i want to upgrade amp 60A should do and its pretty cheap so.. what do you think? Also some people said the quality of the sound would be ****, with the Current PSU im using right now it sounds good but when I crank it over 50% my Amplifier Starts clipping and sounds awful, which means it obviously needs more Power.

Thanks Myself, I really woudn't invest in another power supply so you can run your amp at max power.........I'd guess you will get another car in due time & an 'extra' PS will be sitting around, unused for some time.

Besides you may have some neighbors that will go ballistic hearing you sub at full power. You do realize that a car sub is a very different creature as opposed to a "home" subwoofer..........the two sound completely different.........If it sounds good for you thats' OK!

Perhaps a 'spare' car battery can be used for the high current demands with your computer supply configured as a float charger. Maxing out your computer supply is not good as it may not have any safety circuits that can deal with overloads.

_______________________________________Rick....... .... My neighbours will go crazy I suppose they used to get angry over that 4" logitech 20WRMS sub I had, I guess I will only crank it when they are not at home.

Although I've thought about it I am getting a new setup (Kicker Solo X 18" or a Fi BTL) and a better Amp So I might aswell put it to good use, not that the supply costs much anyway. Thanks for the reply though. Forum Jump Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post khundude Pass Labs 2 19th November 2008 07:13 AM Netlist Everything Else 23 8th March 2008 12:43 PM hags Everything Else 1 8th October 2007 11:00 PM studiotech Solid State 3 10th October 2005 08:55 AM chris ma Everything Else 10 23rd June 2004 12:51 AM New To Site?

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best way to set up car amp in house without psu

Usually, car audio systems like CD player or cassette player have good audio amplifiers, with four channels (front L/R and rear L/R) of enough power for in home use.

The radio tuner is also of high quality, with automatic best frequency selection and RDS information. Not all car audio systems have audio auxiliary inputs, although with a little tweaking, you can add audio line level inputs to a cassette player so you can use it as audio amplifier with any audio source. There are plenty of how-to's about this subject online. Yet I couldn't find one that handles the memory loss problem.

Car audios are designed to be continuously powered by the battery. Therefore, most don't have a permanent storage memory for settings. Upon disconnecting the power, the device loses all audio settings and stored radio stations. This article will deal with the memory loss problem. Unless you will never unplug the DC adapter from the mains, you will need something similar to what follows if you want to use a car audio device in home.

Let's start with the basics. Car audio devices There are mainly two types: cassette receiver and CD player. Cassette players are usually older and have lower audio power than CD players. Yet, they have some important advantages: you can get them at bargains at very low prices and you can disable the cassette reader, easily fool them to think there's a cassette inside and use the tape head connector as audio input.

On the other hand, CD players may have higher audio output power, USB drive reader and AUX inputs. They are more expensive and if you get one that doesn't have auxiliary audio inputs and you want to use it as audio amplifier, you usually can't trick it there's a CD in if you disable the CD reader.

Basic wiring Car audio devices have a wide voltage range. You can power most of them from 11 to 16 V D.C. I don't know why all the how-to's regarding this subject suggest using a computer power supply for this purpose. They are big, they have multiple outputs, even though you only need one.

I consider laptop power supplies and external LCD monitor power supplies a much better fit fot this purpose. This kind of power supplies have output voltages ranging from 12 to 20 V at high current of 3...7 A. You can't use power supplies with output voltage higher than 16 V, but you can adjust the feedback circuit of any power supply with, let's say 19 V, to decrease this value to 14...15 V.

I will not describe this operation here. It is not that difficult: 1. unplug, open the case and discharge big electrolytic capacitor; 2.

locate a transistor looking thing marked with 431 (i.e. ) and tweak the voltage divider that drives pin 1 of this IC. So, if you're looking for a power supply: 12...16 V and at least 3 A will offer you good performance with most car audio players. Yet, keep reading, because there are some thing to consider when choosing the correct voltage.

So, how should you power this thing? There is a ground wire (black) and a main power wire (yellow). There is another wire (red) named "ignition". The player can be powered on only when there is power applied to both yellow and red wire. The current is drawn from the yellow wire. The red wire only signals the CPU it can exit the stand-by state. If, somehow, the yellow wire is disconnected from the power, the player CPU resets and RAM is erased, losing all memory settings. If the red wire is disconnected, the player automatically enters stand-by mode, significantly decreasing current drawn from yellow wire.

No settings are lost. In conclusion, yellow wire is considered to be always-on and also the main power line. Basic wiring of car audio devices The proper powering of car audio players in home needs the following devices: • back-up battery; • high current D.C. power supply; • when the D.C. power supply is disconnected, the device gets power only on yellow wire from the back-up battery.

Because the red wire gets no power (is low), the device is locked into stand-by mode and draws very low current; • when the D.C. power supply gets on, it supplies high current on yellow wire to device thus no current will be drawn from battery in this case. It is also connected to red wire, switching it to high and allowing the device to be turned on from stand-by.

The crucial power line needed to keep memory is the CPU one. Most CPUs operate at 5 V, so the battery voltage is down-converted by a simple regulator. If you own the schematic of your device, you could directly apply a battery back-up voltage to the CPU, but there are some risks (applying power to the wrong line, destroying the CPU or the voltage regulators by reverse-powering them). Well, it can be easier than you thought if the following condition is met: back-up battery voltage should never be higher than main power supply voltage.

And this is easy to accomplish, because devices designed to be powered from batteries have wide voltage tolerances. So you can use 8 V battery (keep reading) with 12 V power supply or 12 V battery with 16 V power supply.

Obviously, 8V is an under-rated voltage. But is easy to obtain from two series Li-Ion batteries. And look at the previous diagram.

See the CPU gets 5 V after a regulator? There are chances this regulator can supply 5 V even though it is powered at 7...8 V. Of course, not all car players are the same. But it's worth a try if you own a power supply with less than 16 V output.

Below is the test circuit. Car audio test circuit with 7 V backup voltage Trigger the switch, power on the player and make some settings (change volume, store a radio station, etc.). Now, turn off the switch, while keeping the 7 V on. Wait a few seconds, then trigger the switch on. Are the settings default or did it keep your settings? If it reset, you can't use the method I propose with two series Li-Ion cells. Keep increasing the bench supply voltage and repeat the test to determine the minimum voltage that doesn't reset memory.

In this way you will find what kind of backup batteries you can use and how many cells. The UPS I'll build the UPS using Li-Ion cells from laptop batteries. Since my car player didn't lose settings at 7 V, I can use only two series cells. The UPS circuit must reverse current direction when the car player is switched on, thus charging the battery. Below is the schematic with 2 cells and automatic charger based on LM317 (design idea from ).

Battery backup circuit with 2 cells In this situation, you can power the car player with 12 to 16 V DC. The LM317 based charger needs supply about 3 V greater than full battery voltage (8.4 V). Li-Ion batteries are full charged at 4.1 or 4.2 V. If you can't find specs for your batteries, it is a good practice to charge them to 4.1 V.

Thus, you must set the charger to 2 x 4.1 = 8.2 V. To do this, power it without connecting the batteries and adjust R4 until voltage at TP reads 8.2 V. Do not use it without adjusting this voltage! If your car player doesn't want to preserve memory at 8 V, you will need to put 3 series cells. Here is the schematic. Battery backup circuit with 3 cells To be able to charge the batteries, this circuit must be powered from at least 16 V. This is a disadvantage, because you will have to use a power supply with this exact voltage (you can't go higher because you will break the car player).

Adjust TP voltage without batteries connected at 12.3 V. R1 is a power resistor that controls charging current. Divide 1.25 by desired charging current and you will get the value for R1.

I suggest you experiment with values smaller than 6.8 ohms, because this will charge batteries faster, but the LM317 will produce more heat, thus needing a bigger heatsink. Use a resistor of 3W or more.

D1 is a high current rectifier diode. Its purpose is to prevent battery voltage reaching the red wire. If this happens, the car audio player can be turned on while being powered only from backup battery. The diode should have a current rating similar to car audio device fuse and should be heatsinked. It is not shown in schematics, but it is highly recommended to add a fuse in series with the batteries. Keep in mind charging current when choosing one. When this circuit is not powered, the anode voltage of D3 is higher than cathode voltage, thus allowing current flow into the car audio receiver.

When you apply power through CON1, because supply voltage is greater than battery voltage, D3 is reverse biased, thus blocking current flowing into the receiver.

More than this, if supply voltage is at least 3 V higher than battery voltage, LM317 starts supplying constant current to the batteries, charging them. So if you insert an ammeter in series with the battery, you should read drawn current when not powered and a reverse polarized, charging current, when you power on.

Keep in mind that these things usually draw quite a lot of current in stand-by. Mine read 50 to 90 mA. This calls for higher capacity batteries and a positive charge discharge energy ratio. It is recommended to set a charging current greater than discharge current. Construction The UPS I presented is far from perfect.

If you don't power the device for a long time, the Li-Ion batteries will discharge completely, because there is no undervoltage disconnect circuit. This will significantly reduce their lifespan. Car audio devices get quite hot during usage. And Li-Ion batteries hate high temperatures. After all, my idea of placing the batteries inside the device (where the cassette reader was - see top photo) may not be a good idea. In conclusion you are free to build this as you want. You can use whatever batteries you have, either Li-Ion or Ni-Cd, just use a proper charging circuit.

You can put batteries inside the car audio device or outside of it. You can include an automatic battery charger in your setup, or you can add an extra connector, where you can plug an external charger whenever it is needed.

The basic schematic is similar to the test circuit, except you will replace the bench power supply with a battery power supply. When not powered, battery voltage should not reach red wire. When powered, supply voltage should be greater than battery voltage to prevent discharging. By the way, here is a photo of what I am using for powering the device. It is a monitor power supply, capable of 4 A at 12 V. Taken out of the case in the photo. The 12 V power supply I use for a car audio receiver In conclusion, use these circuits to make an idea.

I said they're not perfect. Also, when building an enclosure for a car audio receiver, take into account proper ventilation. These devices can get quite hot. Also, perform current tests and compare values with battery capacity taking into account usage hours. If the car audio receiver draws tens of miliamps, you will need a high capacity battery and a high current charger. • ( 25 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 3 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 3 ) • ( 4 ) • ( 5 ) • ( 27 ) • ( 4 ) • ( 4 ) • ( 5 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 3 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 3 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 16 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 31 ) • ( 9 ) • ( 6 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 3 ) • ( 3 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 11 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 1 ) • ( 4 ) • ( 2 ) • ( 2 )

How To Power Car Sub/Amp In Your House
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