The best way to get more bass in your car is to install an amp and subwoofer, but the job's not done yet!. The issue is that car speakers, even really good car speakers, aren’t big enough, and built-in car stereo amps aren’t powerful enough, to reproduce deep, distortion-free bass. That being the case, upgrading your stock car speakers can still yield some pretty powerful results. Replacing just the speakers does put some hard limitations on what you can expect out of an upgrade, but the higher quality materials found in aftermarket speakers can make a world of difference in both overall sound quality and bass response.
Many people crave better sound in their cars, especially those who spend a lot of time in their cars. They can choose to optimize their current car audio system or upgrade the sound system by replacing their old system with new speakers, a new subwoofer or a new amplifier. However, car owners may feel hesitant to install a new subwoofer on their own. The truth is, you don’t necessarily have to pay someone else to do it, and you can do it yourself without too much hassle if you take time to research.
In this article, we will help you save money by teaching you how to install subwoofers in a car. Basic understanding about subwoofers Subwoofers might be indispensable if you long for rich, deep, and powerful bass sound (low pitched audio frequencies). So basically, they’re speakers, but more specialized. They enhance the overall quality of the audio by reproducing intense low frequencies so ordinary speakers can concentrate on the rest frequencies.
Normally, subwoofers are plastic or wooden loudspeakers enclosures and come in large sizes and consist of a single, large speaker driver (cone). There might me one more woofers inside a subwoofer. When buying subwoofers for your car, make sure it’s of an appropriate size so it can fit into your vehicle. You would want properly manage the trunk capacity of your vehicle to leave room for other stuff too.
Also, the amplifier and subwoofers need power for operation so make sure your car battery can support them. Before starting the installation process, ensure your vehicle’s electrical system is in working order.
There are many subwoofers with different specifications, shapes, and sizes available on the market. If you want to simplify your installation process, choose a single and integrated with a power supply or an amplifier. It’s also much easier to remove than a non-amplified subwoofer. Non-amplified subwoofers will require users to run a lot of wiring and are less portable than their amplified counterparts.
Apart from those subwoofers that come in an integrated unit, others come separately as an individual component. Subwoofers like that don’t have a power supply or an enclosure. This is why they will need an external amplifier and an enclosure in order to produce a strong sound. These individual components are less expensive and more common than their built-in counterparts. When purchasing for an unpowered subwoofer, make sure it comes with a sturdy enclosure so it can offer support to the sound and be durable too.
Planning When you want to install a new subwoofer in your car, this phase can be one of the most, if not the most important parts of the installation process.
There are several things they need to work out in this process: • You have found a dry and secure place to start working on it. Choose an appropriate location Keep in mind that it’s going to take a couple of hours to get the job done, so find a place that you won’t be interrupted and focus on the job. If you have your own garage, you can start whenever you want. However, if you don’t, schedule a block of uninterrupted time. Assembling the supplies You’ll probably need a number of tools throughout the installation process considering this isn’t a simple one.
The less expensive way is borrowing them from your friends or family. If you can’t, then purchase them. To make things easier, we will classify them into 4 categories: • Others: Retaining clip remover, glue gun, caulk, hair dryer or heat gun. Not necessarily all of them will come in handy in every installation session; it still depends on the type of subwoofer you’re going to install and many other factors.
However, most of the items listed above will be very helpful during the installation process. Placement Usually, subwoofers will be installed in the trunk of your vehicle, so make sure you can have unhindered access to your spare tire after installing the unit. Being placed in this location will lead to a muffling effect caused by the back seat.
What it needs for the bass sounds to be able to cut through the effect is a power supply that’s strong enough. Also, during normal driving, the subwoofers tend to bang or slide around. To prevent it from happening, secure them by straps or brackets. Make sure you’re careful so you don’t affect other any of your car parts such as the gas tank or brake. Installation process Disconnect the car battery first if you want to install the subwoofer along with the amplifier.
Carefully start with the negative terminal then the positive terminal. A good option is to run the cable through the rubber gasket that leads from the engine compartment into the dashboard.
Another option is to drill a hole. Either way, make sure the hole is as small as possible. When running the cable, keep it away from any important devices such as controls and pedals… To keep the cables from coming loose causing a potential danger, fasten them with zip ties or clips.
• Install the ground wire An important thing to remember is that this wire needs to touch bare metal, so make sure the metal isn’t painted or covered. These wires are grounded to the car’s chassis by a seat belt. They’re very short. When installing it, remove the seat bolt and put it back tightly into place after placing the ground wire.
• Connecting the subwoofer to the car’s stereo This is the next step when you’re done connecting the amplifier to the car battery and running the ground wire (in case you’re installing an unpowered and component subwoofer). Most car stereos have ports or RCA connectors to connect with the audio cables from the subwoofers.
To make the ports or RCA connectors visible, you will need to slide the car’s stereo part way out or even all the way out. You might even have to remove the dashboard too. Remember to follow the instructions in your car’s user manual. In case the subwoofer is in the trunk of your car, you might need to drill a hole and run the cables under the seats. Use ties or clips to secure the cables. You can also run the cables through a wire channel if there is one, or run them under the car’s carpet.
If you’re using an amplifier, running the power cables for the amplifier right next to the audio cables can cause some interference. Therefore, avoid running them close together. Wrap it up Once you’ve successfully installed all the cables and wires, it’s time to reconnect the battery.
To reconnect the car battery, start with the positive terminal then the negative terminal. Make sure the connections to the battery are tight enough, not overly tight and not too loose. In case you’re installing a separate amplifier, the final step is placing the in-line fuse. If you can to change the amplifier setup, take off the fuse. To improve the quality and longevity of the subwoofer, play it low for 20 hours when you start the car.
And you might need to perform a variety of adjustments and tweaks to achieve the optimum sound quality. Final thought No one says installing a new subwoofer in a car is simple and easy. In fact, it’s a complicated and long process.
However, the result is rewarding, you can save money while getting to work how the audio system works better. • • • • • • © 2018 · DEMOSITE is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc.
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best way to install subwoofers in car - What do I need to install subwoofers in my car?
After 40 hours of researching the most popular car subwoofers from the most trusted audio brands, I spent a weekend testing the nine best powered subwoofers. The emerged as the best performing car subwoofer overall with its exceptionally pristine low-end and powerful amp capable of creating massive bass. That said, the was actually the highest ranked subwoofer, despite a slightly less stellar performance.
The low market price combined with high-end performance makes up the difference, which is why it's our pick for best value subwoofer. The P300 may be one of the more expensive car subwoofers I reviewed, but when you consider that it comes with a built-in amplifier and an enclosure, the $200 price tag is still far below what you'd spend if you bought everything separately.
And you don't have to sacrifice performance. The Rockford Fosgate P300 features a 12-inch woofer installed in a sealed enclosure with a 300-watt built-in amplifier. In my tests, it was the most impressive car subwoofer. Even after boosting everything as high as I could and maxing out the volume on the stereo, I could not get this subwoofer to distort. The bass was pristine.
And very big. I was able to feel the bass from a greater distance than with other powered subs. Since it's a sealed enclosure, the performance is designed to be tight. This means it sounds as close to the mixed bass as possible. That said, bass performance is largely a matter of preference, so it may not be preferred by people who like aggressive, punchy bass, even when a mix doesn't ask for it. The P300 is one of the biggest subwoofers I tested. This means you need to put it in your trunk or storage area.
However, the bass is plenty big enough to rattle windows and mirrors (of cars you pass by), even in the trunk. As such, it's not a significant issue, so long as you have the space. Otherwise, you may want to consider an under-seat subwoofer. This powered car subwoofer comes with a 350-watt (continuous) amplifier and a 12-inch woofer installed to a sealed enclosure. While the performance wasn't as impressive as the Rockford Fosgate P300, it was still one of the best powered car subwoofers I tested, giving the remarkably low price exceptional value.
In my performance tests, the TS-WX1210A received an A- for overall performance. I evaluated how the bass performed in a mix. Then I disconnected the coaxial speakers to isolate the bass and evaluated the shape and performance, listening for clipping issues and distortion. Since the enclosure is sealed, the bass is very tight.
This means it doesn't sound as big as a ported enclosure at lower volumes, but the bass sounds closer to the intended mix. This subwoofer received a few marks against it after I opened up the gain and the crossover dial. That said, it was still among the best performing subs. When you get it dialed in, the performance makes the price stand out by comparison.
The size of the bass received an A grade. It didn't produce the biggest bass, but the size is certainly big enough to let your neighbors know when you're rolling into the driveway. To test this, I didn't just max out the amplifier's volume and control, I found the sweet spot – the point at which the bass performs at its best.
I measured the volume with a decibel meter, but since volume can be deceiving with bass, I also gauged the size by seeing how far I could roam from the subwoofer while still feeling the bass. There are subs with bigger bass, but this sub is plenty big to rattle your windows. Sure, it doesn't have the high-powered amplifier of bigger car subwoofers, but since it's installed beneath your driver's or passenger's seat, you feel it just as much, if not more. In the audio performance tests, the BassLink SM earned an A- for overall quality.
This test involved listening to it with car speakers to evaluate how the bass fit in the mix. I also disconnected the car speakers to isolate the bass and listen for distortions and clipping. This sub outperformed the other under-seat car subwoofers, except for the JBL BassPro SL. That said, it's worth noting that the BassPro SL is identical to the Infinity BassLink SM, aside from a few aesthetic details and the price.
They're even designed and manufactured by the same company, Harman, so it's not surprising for these powered subwoofers to perform similarly.
The bass size earned a B+ grade. I tested this first by finding the sweet spot where the subwoofer performed at its biggest point without distortion or clipping. Then I measured the volume with a decibel meter.
I also walked away from the subwoofer until I couldn't feel the bass anymore. While it certainly wasn't bigger than the 12-inch powered subs I tested, it was significantly bigger than the other under-seat car speakers. With it installed under your seat, you feel the punch of the bass rattling your bones more than a subwoofer in a trunk.
The B+ grade is more comparable to the A+ grade of the bigger subwoofers. I don't like the silver casing. Every under-seat subwoofer I reviewed is black, and for good reason – black blends into the shadows under your seat, making it less of a target for theft.
Even if your seat covers the subwoofer, it's likely the edges are still visible. With a silver casing, it stands out. And as somebody who has had his prized subwoofer stolen before, I don't like that this one is easy to see.
That said, this is clearly a matter of preference. If you're concerned with the silver drawing too much attention, the JBL BassPro SL is identical in terms of specifications and performance, but the black enclosure is less conspicuous. The JBL GT-BassPro12 has the most intimidating design of the subwoofers I tested.
With its silver protective bars and the large enclosure, it's clearly designed to look as mean as it sounds. And it certainly delivers. The ported design of the enclosure allows air to move freely and create booming bass.
The bass isn't as accurate and tight as subwoofers with a closed or sealed enclosure, but lots of people prefer that boom. When I played "Clayman" by In Flames, the punch of the double-kick from the drums in the chorus was so enormous, it brought me back to their live concerts. One of the advantages of having a ported enclosure is the woofer doesn't need as much power. As such, the GT-BassPro12's continuous power output is just 150 watts. This is much weaker than the other 12 inch subwoofers and more comparable to the 8 inch, under-seat subwoofers.
However, don't be fooled. It's plenty capable of comparing to higher-powered subs. Car subwoofers are one of the best ways to improve your car's audio experience and for announcing your presence at a red light.
However, car subwoofers are also among the most stolen devices from vehicles. To remedy this, manufacturers have developed subs to fit under your car's seats. Unfortunately, the Kenwood KSC-SW11 was the only under-seat subwoofer with an enclosure small enough to fit completely beneath my car's seat, making it totally invisible to potential thieves looking in through the window.
A small enclosure does equal some sacrifices. The amplifier isn’t as big and powerful as other under-seat amplifiers. Most similar subwoofers have a 150 watt amplifier, but the Kenwood KSC amplifier is 75 watts. In addition, the woofer isn’t deep, as the shallow enclosure requires a flatter woofer. This means it can't move as much air. When you combine the lack of power and the shallow woofer, the bass performance isn't as good or as big as better under-seat subwoofers.
That said, the bass performance is still good enough to improve your listening experience. Why Trust Us Top Ten Reviews has reviewed car subwoofers since 2010, and I've reviewed subwoofers since 2013. I've spent between 40 and 120 hours reviewing component subwoofers each year.
However, I shifted the focus this year from component subs to powered subs. The reason is simple. Purchasing a component subwoofer means you must also purchase an amplifier and an enclosure. By focusing on powered subs, I've simplified the purchasing decision, accounting for the amplifier and enclosure decisions as well. These subs are practically plug-and-play devices. You don't have to fret over matching the power handling specifications of a component subwoofer with a compatible amplifier.
Nor do you have to worry about matching up the wire gauges. Powered subwoofers don't require an electrical expert to install. That said, hiding power and audio cables or removing dash consoles to access stereo ports can be difficult if you don't have experience, so you may want to consider a professional installation. How Much Do Car Subwoofers Cost? The powered car subwoofers in this review cost between $112 and $300. If you search for car subwoofers on sites like Amazon or Crutchfield, you can find subwoofers for as low as $20.
However, these are just the speaker part of the sub. To add bass to your mix, buy an enclosure and an amplifier. When you consider the cost of an enclosure, amplifier, wiring and a professional installation, a car subwoofer can easily run over $500. Therefore, a powered subwoofer, like the ones I reviewed, are both the easiest to install and the most affordable option. How We Tested To test and compare the powered subwoofers, I set up an area in our audio lab where I could easily connect and disconnect each subwoofer for an easy apples-to-apples comparison of performance.
Each subwoofer was powered by a DC converter, simulating a car's battery, and was connected to the same and . Using a playlist of songs that I recorded and mixed, I evaluated the performance of the subwoofer within the context of the overall mix. I listened for imbalances and moments when the bass didn't sound like the intended mix. Since I was intimately familiar with how the bass was supposed to sound in these songs, I knew exactly when the low-end performance wasn't matching up.
After this evaluation, I disconnected the speakers to isolate the low-end performance to listen for shape, distortion and clipping. Throughout these tests, I found every subwoofer's sweet spot – the point where the volume, gain, frequency crossover and other available controls are tuned to the subwoofer's best performance.
The sweet spot is rarely the maximum volume, which is why the bass size doesn't represent how loud the amplifier gets when turned up all the way. Rather, it is the size of the bass at its best performance. As with any speaker, it matters little how loud it can get if it sounds terrible. Once I found the sweet spot, I measured the size of the bass by using both a decibel meter and by seeing how far I could walk from the audio lab while still feeling the bass.
I used the latter measurement in conjunction with the decibel meter because I found volume to be deceiving with bass. Some subwoofers recording the same volume at their sweet spot felt considerably different in size.
What Else You Should Know About Car Subwoofers Nearly every automobile leaves the factory with at least a stereo and two door speakers of varying sizes. This is the simplest of car audio systems. Most modern cars come with four speakers. The best way to improve a factory-installed audio system is to add a subwoofer.
In addition to making the music feel bigger by filling out the mix, your car's speakers perform more accurately because they don't have to produce all the audio. When to Choose a Passive Component Subwoofer Powered subwoofers like the ones I reviewed are the easiest and most affordable way to add a subwoofer to your car's audio. However, powered car subwoofers are limited in terms of control and expandability.
A passive component subwoofer is the other option. These subs are simply the speaker and nothing else. They require at least two additional purchases – an amplifier and an enclosure. And the quality and price of component subwoofers varies, from as low as $30 to as high as $10,000 (, for example).
Since you must buy the amplifier and enclosure, you have more control over how the woofer performs. You can buy an amplifier to power the car speakers as well as the subwoofer or to expand the system however you want. You can build your own enclosure to fit both your car and to shape the bass to your preferences. Enclosures: Sealed or Ported According to Crutchfield's Buck Pomerantz, the secret to a subwoofer's performance "lies in the type of subwoofer box you use." While sizes and shapes of enclosures vary and can have some influence over performance since the enclosure needs to be tuned to the frequency of the subwoofer, the biggest influence over performance is whether the enclosure is sealed or ported.
A sealed enclosure is closed off, allowing no air to move out of the box. This stabilizes the woofer as it pushes against the pressure of the atmosphere to create the low frequencies. This stabilization is designed to create an accurate bass sound that Pomerantz describes as "tight." However, since the woofer is stabilized against the atmosphere, it requires more power to drive a subwoofer in a sealed enclosure. Conversely, a ported enclosure has a hole in the box. This hole equalizes the pressure inside the box with the atmosphere, making the woofer easier to move.
As such, a ported enclosure doesn't require as much power to drive as a sealed enclosure. You can reach much higher volumes with much lower power. And since air moves freely in and out of the enclosure, it has an aggressive, less accurate sound Pomerantz describes as "boomy." Neither type of performance is necessarily better.
It depends on your personal preferences. Pomerantz breaks the two enclosures into two camps of people: those who want to "hear bass, not thunder" and those who want "more punch and reverberance" in the beat. Most of the subwoofers I tested fall into the "hear bass, not thunder" camp, but a few of the powered subs come in ported enclosures and fit into the boomy category.
As such, I evaluated their performance from this perspective. Professional or DIY Installation When you purchase audio equipment from an online retailer, you avoid the car audio shop's installation fee. This savings means you are responsible at installing the equipment yourself. For some products, it's easy. For most cars, speakers are easy to swap out on your own with little more than a screwdriver. Some retailers, like Crutchfield, even include DIY instructions specific to your vehicle. But should you install it yourself?
In an interview with Steve Stern, president of the , he argued for a professional installation. He explained, a "tight install can work to bring out the best in even the most basic, inexpensive equipment." For him, it's worth the cost of the installation to make sure everything is wired correctly so the speakers get the cleanest signal possible.
This requires expert knowledge in matching wire gauge impedance and cord length to the impedance of the speakers and stereo to get the cleanest audio signal. With powered subwoofers, the installation is far simpler than trying to add a passive subwoofer, enclosure and amplifier because it's all one unit. You simply connect the subwoofer's speakers to the pre-outs of the stereo and connect the power and ground cables to the battery or fuse box.
Of course, even this level of simplicity is more complicated than it seems. Every vehicle is different, but accessing the back of a stereo and power supply often means removing door panels, ceiling panels, consoles and dashes. Unless you're confident you can put things back together, a professional installation is worth a consideration.
In this instructable, I will show you the whole process of installing an amplified subwoofer into a car. This process will work with most stock stereos, and all aftermarket stereos. It can be modified to work with all stock stereos, but you may need a few more parts. I will show you how to do this with an aftermarket head unit (stereo).
When you look at the pictures, realize that I am using an amplifier that is too small for the subwoofer. It is for demonstration purposes and it does not sound as good as it should. So what will we need to do this? -Subwoofer box -Subwoofer speaker (see next step) -Amplifier (see next step) -Wiring kit (or each of the following) -10 Gauge or thicker, 20 foot insulated wire (for power) -10 Gauge or thicker, 3 foot insulated wire (for ground) -18 or 16 Gauge, 15 foot wire -RCA cables, 15 feet or longer (you need 2 or one with both red and white) -In-line fuse, 50 amps or higher -Some speaker wire -4 small wood screws -Basic tools For the power and ground wires, you will need thicker wires depending on how powerful the amplifier is.
REALLY powerful amps could need as much as a 0 gauge wire. Walmart sells amplifier kits (as do some other stores). The kits tell you how many watts they can handle. This can be a tricky step. You want to choose a speaker and amp that put out the most power, without blowing each other. What you want is the RMS of both the subwoofer speaker and the amplifier to be as close as possible.
The RMS is the amount of power a speaker can continuously have sent to it without going bad. The RMS is also the amount of power the amplifier can continuously put out without over heating. When looking at speakers and amplifiers, do not look at the peak power. A speaker or amp can only be run on the peak power for about a minute before it goes bad or overheats. You want to be running your subwoofers on its RMS rating rather than the peak rating. For best sound, keep the impedance (Ohms) the same too.
Lets take the for example. Its ratings are: -400w RMS -1200w Peak -4 Ohm Impedance A good amp for this speaker (assuming this is the only speaker attached to the amp) might be the . This amp has the following ratings when it is in "bridged mode". -400w RMS -4 Ohm Impedance Choosing a size for a speaker is also important. Smaller speakers like the 8 and 10 inch ones, are very quick to respond and punch better than bigger ones, but are not very loud.
Bigger ones like 15+ inch ones, are very loud compared to smaller ones at the same wattage, but have slow response, and make the sound more mushy. The bigger ones also handle lower frequencies better too. 12 inch speakers are a good compromise for a basic system. Make sure you buy a subwoofer box that has a hole the same size as your speaker. We will start with wiring the power from the battery. It is important to get the power from the battery and not the fuse box.
Power from the fuse box often is "unclean" and you may hear your engine noise amplified through your speakers. You could also easily blow a fuse by using the little ones the fuse box has. Start by finding an opening in the car's firewall. This is the metal wall under the hood of the car, closest to the windshield. The other side of the firewall should be the inside of the car. I chose a hole that was behind my glove box and was fairly easy to get to from the engine compartment.
Run the majority of the power cable through the hole in the firewall, making sure to leave enough wire to get to the battery. Strip the insulation off of the wire at the end where the battery is. Wire the in-line fuse to this end (if it is not part of the wire already).
You want the fuse as close to the battery as possible. Do not connect the wire to the battery yet. Make sure you tape the place where you wired the fuse to the wire, so you don't get a short.
Run the remaining wire under the cars carpeting or through a wire channel, if there is one. You want to get this wire to the trunk of the car. While you have the carpeting loose, run the 16 - 18 gauge wire and the RCA cables from the trunk to as close to the back of the stereo head unit as possible, leave a little slack at both ends.
You now need to take the stereo head unit out. It usually requires you either take off the front of the center console, or you use a tool to slide the stereo out of special clips. After you have the stereo out, look at the back of it.
There should be 2 RCA connections. Run the RCA cables through the back of the center console and plug them into the 2 connections on the back of the stereo. If your stereo does not have these connections, you will have to splice the wires into the rear speaker wires. Better yet, go out and by a new stereo that has RCA. They aren't very expensive any more. Leave the stereo out for the next step. You will need to run the 16 - 18 gauge wire through the back of the center console too.
This wire tells the amp that the stereo has turned on, and that the amp should too. If you look at all the wires coming out of the back of the head unit, there should be 1 or 2 blue ones.
These are called the remote wires. If your wires are labeled they may be labeled as: -Remote -Rem -Amp -Amplifier -Power Antenna -Pwr. Ant. -Antenna or something similar to one of those. If there are 2 wires, there should be one labeled Amp. If there is just one blue wire, you can use that.
If you have a power antenna, you will have to splice into the blue wire for use with the amp too. What you need to do is connect the 16 - 18 gauge wire to the correct blue wire. When the stereo comes on, so will the amp. If it is a stock stereo on a car without a power antenna and no blue wire, then run the 16 - 18 gauge wire to the fuse box, and connect it to a fuse that turns on when the accessories are on. Your amp will always be on when your car is on, but it shouldn't make noise, so its OK.
If it does make noise (like from the engine), add a switch so you can turn it on or off. This is pretty self explanatory, but for those who don't know: Put the speaker in the box, making sure the flimsy thin gasket thing is on it. If the box has its own connectors on the outside, make sure they are wired to the speaker inside.
Screw the speaker into the box, using the holes on the outside rim of the speaker. Set the subwoofer in the trunk of the car. OK now we have most of the wires in place, we can wire up the amp. Connect the power cable from the battery into the spot on the amp that has one of the following markings (do not connect it to the speaker positive): B+ Batt.
Pos. +12v 12v Pwr Power Connect the 16 to 18 gauge wire into the spot that says: Rem. Remote Ant. Connect the 3 foot, 10 gauge wire to the one marked (do not connect it to the speaker negative): B- Neg -12v Gnd Ground Connect the other end of the ground wire to a nearby bolt that connects to the body of the car. Connect the speaker wire to the + and - marked for speakers on the amp.
There may be 2 channels. If there are 2 channels and you can bridge your amp, do it. I won't explain bridging but its easy and you can Google it.
Connect the other end of the speaker wire to the + and - on the speaker box. Try to make sure that the + from the amp is connected to the + on the speaker, and the same with the -. first time I am installing a subwoofer in my car and I need to connect outline converter in my car radio.
I bought 2 channel outline converter from e bay and I need to tap into factory cable speakers but not sure with speakers I should tap. front or back? My front speakers have no Bass at all and rare speakers are batter and with some Bass.
can someone please give me advice about which speaker cable I should tap to connect lineout converter please? selecting speakers for amplifier.
This article has a huge mistake. One should never match amplifier power with speaker power. Here is why. Amplifier power measuremnt is watt rms. Rms stands for square root of the average of square. The important thing here is AVERAGE.
The speaker power is expressed as the maximum input. In electronic we call this the crete to crete value. If you pick a speaker with maximum rated input of 100 Watt to connect it to an amplifier with average output of 100 Watt, then never crank the amplifier to max or you'll end up damaging the speakers.
The good pratice is to pick a speaker rated for 170% of the amplifier power. A 100 watt rms output should never be inputed in a speaker with less thant 170 watt mximum input. If you follow this guideline, you won't blow up you speakers and improve sound output quality ! Congratulations on the enthusiastic hard work of both the author and the many contributors to this instructable. I have to make one comment, though, which anyone installing powerful subwoofers into an automobile needs to be aware of.
Around the year 2000, the UK national Fire and Rescue service issued a nationwide advisory about people who have done just this. It is a fact of life that under the carpets of most motor cars is moisture, brought in from the outside atmosphere and trapped by the carpet. This moisture causes the metalwork of the car to rust. As the car gets older, the rusting becomes worse.
Installing powerful subwoofers into an older vehicle puts a big strain upon the metal panels of the car, and the welds holding the panels together. The welds in some such vehicles involved in crashes were found to have spilt along hairline cracks, introduced by the use of subwoofers, or by panels splitting at rust points.
I'm not claiming that this will happen to your vehicle if it is old and you install subwoofers; I'm simply saying that it has been observed to happen by the UK authorities. Be careful. Regards Phil My 06 sentra came with a rockford fosgate surround sound system.
My subwoofer has stopped working. I have checked all my fuses and have even opened up the amp case to see if i can figure out whats wrong but nothing looks ab normal.
All my other speakers work fine. So if someone had a solution please help. Another question, I have a 15' rockford sub and an amp to go with it, i want to install it into my sentra, but i have found out the stock stereo doesnt come with RCA jacks so whats is the best way to go about this? PLEASE HELP! hey so ihave the whole subwoofer package and amps and wiring, but idont even want to try to install it myself, ijust think imight mess up, so how much would a person who knows how to install them charge me, and i know it depends but ikinda need a price range??, and btw ihave a 99 malibu if that helps..?
For the need to replace a stock radio, you do not have to do it all the time. What I have done is wired the speaker output, into the rear speakers. By doing this, you do not have to tie into the front radio, but there is also the being that all you are doing is "Upping the sound of your rear speakers and not really adding the subs to the music.
From what I have seen happen is that the subs work in 2 main ways that I know of. Because some songs for example have 2 different base line so that when one you have tied in the speaker wires to the radio, you will hear something different from when you tie it into the rear speakers. Mostly I did my sound system into the rear speakers not only because I did not want to spend more time in wiring it to the radio, I was unsure on the connection to do it on, because I have an older model aftermarket radio that is already tied into a CD changer.
There are other ways on doing this but from what I read from your posting, this would be the cheaper way on doing it. I you have a stock radio you will probly need to replace it.
If you have a aftermarket already installed or to be installed look at the instructions that came with it if you can put in a sub it will show you how to wire it, plus the ones with the amp you will be fine the hardest part is runing the wires, and the second hardest part is making sure the posative and negative on the amp are right other than that it should just be plug and play as it says above.
(you may need to turn on the sub from within the radio but thats the only odd part on some) IMHO ,For Your Ground you should use a ring terminal soldered to the wire , and not rely on an existing bolt , use another location , sand the surface to bare metal screw the terminal down , then solder the terminal till it is fused together , then a quick coat of spray paint ( keep from oxidation ) , you will never have a problem with Grounding and or loose bolts , other than that you did give a Simple guidelines for any novice wanting to try an amp install for the first time !
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